So I’ve seen 15.4 and 18.5 gallons for the 98?  I have the limited model but
can never find specifications that differenciate b/n SR5 and limited (if
there is one?)

I ask b/c when the fuel light comes on and I subsequently fill up I usually
get in about 14.5 gallons, I find it hard to believe they only warn you when
you have only 1 gallon left, every other car has been 3-4.

Thanks for any info!

Can anybody help me out with replacing the break light for my Rav4?  Do I
need to pop off the plastic and replace it like that?  All my other
experiences with replacing bulbs were with sedans where I could get to them
through the trunk.  So now I’m a little confused.  Thanks for the help.

I have a 2003 Tacoma 4×4 manual, 4cyl. I like to do some light-moderate
off-roading. I find I have to use 4-low often to get over inclines, even
inclines low in height. I use 4-low often actually. I use to drive 4×4′s the
parents had when I was younger, S-10′s/Blazers/Cherokees. Dad nor I rarely
used 4-low. Granted these were V6 vehicles.

So my question is..is my use of 4-low normal? I also upgraded the tire size
from 28.3 to 30.6. The tire sticker inside the door shows the tire size I
have on it now with its recommended pressure etc., so I assume its ok. Tire
size P265 70R 16.

Cheers

Hey all,

I’ve been looking to buy a second generation 4runner, and I think I’ve
found a good candidate.  It’s a 1990 SR5 w/ 140k miles on the body,
but about 1000 mi. on a rebuilt V6.  It has the auto tranny and all
the trimmings.  I gave it a thorough test drive, and it’s got a few
issues, but nothing major (I think).  One is the alignment isn’t
perfect, and another is a little brake steer.  Those can be dealt
with.

But the big question is that there’s a high-pitched sort of whine
whenever I hit the accelerator.  The tone seems to increase in pitch
the faster the car moves, independent of the RPMs.  So if I’m going
40mph at 3000rpm or if I’m going 40mph at 2500rpm, it sounds the same.
 (not sure on that, but from what I recall).  The other unknown is
that I can’t tell if it’s coming from the front or rear-end, I didn’t
have anybody with me to identify the direction the sound was coming
from.  I plan on getting a buyers inspection, but I was wondering if
anybody is familiar with such a noise (or other similar noises) before
I take it in.

Also, if anybody happens to know a shop in or around Federal Way, WA
that could do a good job on a buyer’s inspection, any recommendations
would be appreciated.

Thanks!
TC

I have a 1990 4Runner with V6, Automatic and the rear tire carrier.
The top of my rear tailgate is rusted and starting to crack. The
rubber has pulled away from the window and some water does leek in. So
far the window still works perfectly. I took my truck to a Toyota
dealer to look at the damage. I was told it could not be fixed and I
should get a replacement one from a Southern US wrecker. In my opinion
this is overkill since everything still works and only the top 3
inches is rusty and cracked. However, I can not say for sure what the
inside looks like.
Has anyone else, especially from a Northern climate, fixed rust
problems with the rear tailgate. I live in Toronto and have seen quite
a few 4runner’s with the same problem. Any suggestions or fixes
including aftermarket parts and wreckers would be appricated.

I have a 2001 Tundra Acess Cab, with 42k miles.  The past 2 months or
so, the side mirrors have started to buzz and hum at speed.  The dealer
worked on it a bit, but says I may need new mirrors.  Any ideas on what
I can do?

John Anderson

looking for headrest for 78 FJ-40 in any condition contact sh…@mtco.com

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2421998120

I am considering running some of that Oil Flush stuff in my high mileage
engine (170K).  They recommend you dropping the pan and cleaning out all
the sludge after flushing it because it could dislodge a lot of sludge
and end up in the pan.  Is removing the pan on my vehicle easy?  I do my
own brakes, flush the cooling system, replaced O2 sensor, fuel filters,
tuneups.  Is this within my abilities?  Does the transfer axle have to
be removed?  I have heard that sometimes you have to loosen the engine
mounts and raise the engine.  I think that is beyond my ability.  I
guess I’m just worried about getting myself into something I can’t get
out of.  Any advice is welcome.

I have a 2001 Tundra SR5, V8, with 41k miles. Runs great, but has a
vibration that feels like it is in the drivetrain. Have replaced the tires,
no change. Tires have been computer balanced several times, including
rotation (front to rear & then cross rotation), but no fix. I put the truck
on jack stands and put in gear. Tires are clearly not out of round and track
straight. But, I did notice that the rear driveline (2 piece unit) appears
to have a slight wobble, whereas the front portion of the driveline does
not. U-joints look fine, with no extraordinary slop. I am tempted to remove
the rear driveline and take to a local driveline shop for balancing. Has
anyone heard of such a problem, or experienced this problem?