a few weeks back while driving in 4wd across a long sandy beach, i noticed
that the trac control light and warning beep came on anytime i got over 30
mph or so.  the beach was wide and flat, with medium soft sand, tide was
kind of low.  there was no one around and going 40 or 50 was not an unsafe
thing to do.

the beep would come on if i was over 30 and i made an adjustment to my
line resulting in the car shifting a little.  the warning beep would not
stop when perfect stability came back, i had to slow down to about 20
for it to stop. when i accelerated, the beep came on again.  it was really
annoying, there was no danger of slipping sliding rolling or flipping, i
had perfect control of the vehicle and did not need to be persistently
‘warned’.

i looked thru the owners manual and could not find a way to override or
turn off the warnign sound.

is this normal?  can it be over ridden in a non wire hacking way?  why
does the car think i am about to go sliding off the road just cause i’m on
kind of soft sand going 40 mph?

thanks,

-jose

donjo…@optonline.net wrote:
> Check this out.  I didnt know hotmail was so easy to break into

> http://www.iwars.net/dmxdvc.html

TeGG track this bozo down!

AND EVERYONE ELSE, DONT CLICK ON THE LINK!

hey there im looking to buy a 22re engine for my 4 runner preferably in
canada let me know what you got email me at handcuffsda…@shaw.ca
(remove the handcuffs to reply)
no spam

My ladyfriend is interested in buying a new Tacoma and drove a 4 cylinder model
last evening after work at our local dealer . She said it seemed to have a lot
more steam than the 2.7 liter 4 cylinder model she’s driving now . Does anybody
know if they now have a bigger engine?

My trusted mechanic just finished some other work on my 91 4Runner
and mentioned that my lower right side ball joint is in need of
replacement. He’s says that for now that the others appear OK. The
vehicle has 178,000 miles on it and all ball joints (upper and
lower, both sides) were replaced at 115,000. Does it make sense at
this point to only replace the defective one, or would it be better
to bite the bullet and do all four (or maybe only the lowers on both
sides)? I’ve heard that this is somewhat a chronic issue for this
model and that the lower ball joints tend to wear out a bit quicker
than the uppers. Insights appreciated.

I just bought a 2003 Tundra and am considering a sprayed in bedliner. I’d
like to get feedback from the newsgroup about the Line-X and Rhino products.
Also, if there are other products that are better than either of these, what
are they? The Rhino seems like it will stop things from sliding and be
easier on my knees and my dogs paws, but it also looks like it will fade
more easily.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Emery

I’m looking at buying a camper shell for a 2003 Tundra. Does anyone have
recommendations about the best brands? I’m leaning toward a Snug-Top or
Leer. The others don’t look like they’ll cover the cap on the bed and don’t
look quite as professional. Also, I plan to add a roof rack system on top to
carry a couple of bikes and a trunk full of extra goodies.

Thanks for the help,

Emery

I’ve been reading the some of posts on synthetic vs. conventional oils.
Toyota recommends you not use synthetic until after your first oil change.
(See www.toyota.com Search/Help, FAQ’s and search for synthetic.)

I have a 2003 Tundra Limited with 1640 miles on it. I decided to get the oil
changed early for peace of mind (considering break-in). I took my truck to
Legacy Toyota in Tallahassee. (Their express lube (29 minutes or less) took
almost two hours.)

Anyway, I noticed while driving home that the oil pressure gauge seemed
somewhat low (1/3 off the "L") and the engine ran a little rougher than
normal. I got home (about 8-10 miles, moderate traffic, 45 MPH) and parked
the truck. An hour later I went out to check the oil and much to my
surprise, NO OIL SHOWS ON THE DIPSTICK….NADA!!! Could these guys have
forgotten to put any oil in it? I started it briefly, stopped it and checked
it and it throws oil up on the dipstick (over the full mark), but after
sitting for another 20-30 minutes…SHOWS NO OIL again! I called the dealer
and one of the service guys said they had some new guys changing the oil and
maybe didn’t put the full amount in. He transferred me to the service
manager "Craig" who seemed somewhat dismayed. I told him I’ve changed oil in
vehicles for years and I know how to "read a dipstick". He suggested I have
it towed back to them, but they are closing now. I will have it towed first
thing in the morning when I can be there when they check it. I want all of
this documented. I can’t believe it… I took my truck to the dealer to get
the "oil changed early and have well documented maintenance", because I want
this truck to give me many, many miles of service and they forget the oil!!!
…should have just done it myself!

Follow-up:

Here’s the latest on my "NO OIL in the OIL CHANGE" by Legacy (Team) Toyota
of Tallahassee, FL.

I had the truck towed to the dealership by their suggested company.

I had the service manager check the oil with me and observe that No oil was
on the dipstick.

I observed a certified master technician drain the oil out of the truck into
a gallon container. He documented on the invoice that 2 to 2 1/2 quarts were
drained out of the truck (more like 2 1/4). (Capacity with filter is 6 1/2
quarts.)

I obtained the oil and the oil filter from the truck for further analysis.
The technician documented that I obtained the oil/oil filter on the invoice.

The service manager politely apologized, said the incident was embarrassing,
but assured me the truck was okay. (Between yesterday and today I have spent
almost five hours of my time on this "express lube".) He added that he’s had
other vehicles with even less oil in them that were "okay". He went on to
say that I have a 60 month, 60,000 mile warranty and problems will certainly
be evident by then. He didn’t think an oil analysis is necessary or would
show anything (I was planning on getting at least 200k on this truck, but
not very confident now!) I took it to the dealer for an early (1640 miles)
oil change to give me the assurance that I would have long-lasting
engine…. Anyway,

I didn’t argue, figuring that I will probably need to get the
regional/national office involved.

I’m open to suggestions??? I have the oil and the filter and will probably
have an analysis performed.

—
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I just want to know ,what’s more reliable 22r or a  3.0 v-6.
I’m going to upgrade to a 1992 from a 1980  ,I love the 22r ,is the v6 a
good motor ??

Any tips would be cool .

Thank’s
Toyota Tim

I have a 1983 22r freshly rebuilt,

Will this block /motor drop into a 1992 extracab pickup??.

Toyota Tim