The starter on my wife’s 91 Toyota pickup seems to have given up the ghost, but
I don’t think it is necessarily the starter itself. When it does crank it seems
to crank fine. Other times, it won’t even click. If it was an old Chevy
starter, I’d say the solenoid was gone, but I have no clue of how the gear
reduction type starter on a Toyota is set up. Is there a comparable part on the
Toyota starter? I would prefer to replace something small and cheap if possible
as we plan on selling it. Not much room for a baby in an extracab pickup  ;>)
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

Chris
whitewall junkie
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href="http://members.aol.com/mfinja5/whitewalls2/ultimatedropdown/frames.h
tm">Mfinja’s Hot Wheels with Whitewalls</a><a
href="http://members.aol.com/mfinja3/aswpages/intro.htm"><br>All Small Wheels
Error Cars</a>

Alright, I have swapped my gauges and gotten everything working in my 85
xcab/4wd truck. Swapped in the full gauge setup with speedo, tach,
voltmeter, etc. I knew about the oil pressure switch situation so until I
had the correct sending unit, I left the wire unplugged. I purchased the oil
pressure sending unit from Napa. The new sending unit has the nub on the end
where the wire slides on, but it has a small tab on the side as well where
something else should attach. I get nothing when hooking up the wire to
either of these connectors on the sending unit. Is there another wire that
should go to the extra connector? Or what gives? Is my oil pressure gauge
bad? I would think that an oil pressure sending unit would need some sort of
power as it is not mechanical so should there be a power lead going to the
extra connector?

Good Morning-

Question:  How many miles and/or how many months before a Tacoma oil
change?    

Thanks in advance for your reply.

-Oscar

Due to a humorous misunderstanding regarding a bedliner, I recently removed
the factory bed tiedowns from my ’97 Tacoma. They were very rusty, as were
the screws – in fact, I had to use a screw extractor to get three of them
out. The tiedowns I salvaged: I just polished them up on a wire wheel and
then painted them with several coats of Rustoleum. (I found a can of black
metallic flake in our model shop – I’ll have the snazziest tiedowns around.)
But the screws were a total loss.

I got some new ones (.52ea, not that horrible) from Toyota, but I quickly
saw why the originals had rusted. The galvanizing, I think, is just cheap
cold-dip and won’t last. Also, they’ve got ribbed teeth which are supposed
to stop them backing out (which it does, trust me) but would have chewed up
my pretty paint job and more importantly would have exposed the bare metal
on the tiedowns again.

A fellow I know advised me that these are just 8mm (also known as metric
size M8) screws. So I went on McMaster-Carr’s website (everybody should know
about McMaster-Carr – they are the Industrial Supply Company of the Gods:
http://www.mcmaster.com ) and found some Phillips-drive, panhead M8 screws
in 18-8 stainless steel. I might have to trim them a little – I bought 20mm
and the OEM screws are 15.4mm, or near enough. And they don’t have the
ribbed teeth, but no more than I use the tiedowns, I’ll just check them for
tightness every few months and call it good. If they come loose, I’ll use a
dab of LocTite on ‘em. But otherwise they’re fine.

They come in a package of 25, so I’ve got three sets – anybody wanna buy
some?

D

I have a Toyota 4R but I am thinking about getting a Hummer H1 Diesel
coz I will be towing a trailer 5000 – 6000 pounds all over North
America. Any thoughts, comments, advise…

Ken.

I know I’m probably not describing this as well as I need to but let
me try.  I was looking at my ’91 4Runner and noticed some dirty
sludge/grease on a metal part that’s like 2 halves bolted together
near the driver’s side near the front of the engine about the same
elevation as the front bumper.  I believe it has a shaft running to it
and on the shaft there was a cylindrical shape as part of the shaft.
Also this metal part I think had a hose connected to it (forget
exactly where for the moment).  This part seemed to be under some
triangular plastic box shape whose top was almost flush with the
radiator.  

Any idea what this metal part(s) is and do I need to fix it if it has
dirty sludge/grease around it? Truck seems to drive fine.   I couldn’t
see any leakage but I won’t swear to that.  Any idea what the dealer
might charge to do this repair if necessary?

Anyone have a working 96′ 4Runner antenna mast/motor for sale?  If so, S/H
would be to 89031.  Thanx…

I have a 2002 Taco 2wd 2.4/4cyl 5speed std cab.   On the cross member under
the transmission is a large bolt right in the middle that is not tight.
It will turn cw or ccw a couple turns then tighten , then a week later its
loose again. Is this normal?

                                  PJ

For the guy who was asking for the phone# for Leer,
it’s 800-755-5337, or you can try 800-326-5337.
Leer is a subsidiary of J Poindexter which also owns
Century Caps. They can be jerks when you call them
though, FYI. My understanding is that they farm
out aluminum cap manufacturing to a company called
Eager but I may be wrong.

For the guy who was asking about caps, you can call
Trav-a-lite at 800-793-8929. Their website trav-a-lite.com
has been down for some time. They only sell caps on the
east coast.