i reported earlier on this list a issue with my 96′ 4runner brake pedal
pulsing. i suspected the rotors and i now just swapped them out, brake pads
too. pulsing is gone.
truck only has 40k miles on it. the old brake pads were still at 97% of
original thickness!!
i suspect that this issue arises from the rotors themselves not being of
uniform density. constant heat cycles make them warp over time.
the old set makes for a good brake project. i’ll get them cut then do some
minor cross drilling so when the truck hits 80k miles i have a backup set to
put in.
has anyone else gone 40k+ miles without the need to cut the OEM rotors?
anyone using aftermarket rotors that have gone 40k+ miles without the need
to be cut ?
Big issue with the rotors is improper whell tighening torque and sequence,
this is an industry wide problem.
"andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:HKT08.272239$WW.13674211@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> i reported earlier on this list a issue with my 96′ 4runner brake pedal
> pulsing. i suspected the rotors and i now just swapped them out, brake
pads
> too. pulsing is gone.
> truck only has 40k miles on it. the old brake pads were still at 97% of
> original thickness!!
> i suspect that this issue arises from the rotors themselves not being of
> uniform density. constant heat cycles make them warp over time.
> the old set makes for a good brake project. i’ll get them cut then do some
> minor cross drilling so when the truck hits 80k miles i have a backup set
to
> put in.
> has anyone else gone 40k+ miles without the need to cut the OEM rotors?
> anyone using aftermarket rotors that have gone 40k+ miles without the need
> to be cut ?
—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—–
http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
—–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
"floating" rotors are less likely to warp due to wheel lug torque…
"David J and Lynne J Shepherd" <djslj…@capital.net> wrote in message
news:3c44b750_1@corp.newsgroups.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Big issue with the rotors is improper whell tighening torque and sequence,
> this is an industry wide problem.
> "andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> news:HKT08.272239$WW.13674211@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net…
> > i reported earlier on this list a issue with my 96′ 4runner brake pedal
> > pulsing. i suspected the rotors and i now just swapped them out, brake
> pads
> > too. pulsing is gone.
> > truck only has 40k miles on it. the old brake pads were still at 97% of
> > original thickness!!
> > i suspect that this issue arises from the rotors themselves not being of
> > uniform density. constant heat cycles make them warp over time.
> > the old set makes for a good brake project. i’ll get them cut then do
some
> > minor cross drilling so when the truck hits 80k miles i have a backup
set
> to
> > put in.
> > has anyone else gone 40k+ miles without the need to cut the OEM rotors?
> > anyone using aftermarket rotors that have gone 40k+ miles without the
need
> > to be cut ?
> —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—–
> http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
Hello,
Wheel lug nut torque/sequence is rather critical on these brakes.
Tighten them down in a couple of steps, like 1/3, 1/3, full torque.
jnkessler
sequence is easy to do. impact wrench does not give uniform torque.
why do you say torque is critical for hub centric floating rotors ??
"John N. Kessler" <jnkess…@kc.rr.com> wrote in message
news:o6418.218014$8w3.52425495@typhoon.kc.rr.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Hello,
> Wheel lug nut torque/sequence is rather critical on these brakes.
> Tighten them down in a couple of steps, like 1/3, 1/3, full torque.
> jnkessler
Tighten lugnuts only by hand. I’m not trolling but my present F-150 went
189,thousand without being cut. I had it since it was new. It now has
217,000 miles on the clock. My freind has a Toyota truck. We went in
places this last weekend I would not take my Bronco II. His Toyota is a
off-road rusted away truck though. That thing sure does go through the
mud.
Bob
GOD BLESS THE USA
if i were to rely on hand tighten only, i would go buy a torque wrench that
fit the bill. funny thing is, i have many torque wrenches but still use my
impact wrench for on/off.
i’m surprised that if lug torque leads to brake issues, why do auto centers
(grages, etc) rely so heavily on impact wrench? they should be required to
use a auto-torque impact wrench, or a regular torque wrench.
i’m still not convinced that on hub centric floating rotor setups, lug
torque will warp the rotor. with the press-in studs in rotor, it becomes
prevelant that differences in lug torque can twist the rotor as the torque
force intensity is very high on the rotor around the head of the stud on the
back side of the rotor.
"Bob" <blori…@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:14865-3C4574DF-45@storefull-292.iap.bryant.webtv.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Tighten lugnuts only by hand. I’m not trolling but my present F-150 went
> 189,thousand without being cut. I had it since it was new. It now has
> 217,000 miles on the clock. My freind has a Toyota truck. We went in
> places this last weekend I would not take my Bronco II. His Toyota is a
> off-road rusted away truck though. That thing sure does go through the
> mud.
> Bob
> GOD BLESS THE USA
The clamping forces on the floating rotor if varied by un even wheel torque
can also affect heat dissipation, which also occurs through the wheel assy,
particularly alloy wheels.
"andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:pkg18.273839$WW.13782856@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> if i were to rely on hand tighten only, i would go buy a torque wrench
that
> fit the bill. funny thing is, i have many torque wrenches but still use my
> impact wrench for on/off.
> i’m surprised that if lug torque leads to brake issues, why do auto
centers
> (grages, etc) rely so heavily on impact wrench? they should be required to
> use a auto-torque impact wrench, or a regular torque wrench.
> i’m still not convinced that on hub centric floating rotor setups, lug
> torque will warp the rotor. with the press-in studs in rotor, it becomes
> prevelant that differences in lug torque can twist the rotor as the torque
> force intensity is very high on the rotor around the head of the stud on
the
> back side of the rotor.
> "Bob" <blori…@webtv.net> wrote in message
> news:14865-3C4574DF-45@storefull-292.iap.bryant.webtv.net…
> > Tighten lugnuts only by hand. I’m not trolling but my present F-150 went
> > 189,thousand without being cut. I had it since it was new. It now has
> > 217,000 miles on the clock. My freind has a Toyota truck. We went in
> > places this last weekend I would not take my Bronco II. His Toyota is a
> > off-road rusted away truck though. That thing sure does go through the
> > mud.
> > Bob
> > GOD BLESS THE USA
—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—–
http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
—–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
WRONG. K
David J and Lynne J Shepherd wrote:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Big issue with the rotors is improper whell tighening torque and sequence,
> this is an industry wide problem.
> "andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> news:HKT08.272239$WW.13674211@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net…
> > i reported earlier on this list a issue with my 96′ 4runner brake pedal
> > pulsing. i suspected the rotors and i now just swapped them out, brake
> pads
> > too. pulsing is gone.
> > truck only has 40k miles on it. the old brake pads were still at 97% of
> > original thickness!!
> > i suspect that this issue arises from the rotors themselves not being of
> > uniform density. constant heat cycles make them warp over time.
> > the old set makes for a good brake project. i’ll get them cut then do some
> > minor cross drilling so when the truck hits 80k miles i have a backup set
> to
> > put in.
> > has anyone else gone 40k+ miles without the need to cut the OEM rotors?
> > anyone using aftermarket rotors that have gone 40k+ miles without the need
> > to be cut ?
> —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—–
> http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
Almost as important as not waiting until the last minute to brake. You
wear out brakes that early(milage wise), you need to slow down. K
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
"John N. Kessler" wrote:
> Hello,
> Wheel lug nut torque/sequence is rather critical on these brakes.
> Tighten them down in a couple of steps, like 1/3, 1/3, full torque.
> jnkessler
He’s doin’ zero to ninety between lights and wonders why his rotors
warp??? HaHaHa! ROFLMAO!!! K
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Bob wrote:
> Tighten lugnuts only by hand. I’m not trolling but my present F-150 went
> 189,thousand without being cut. I had it since it was new. It now has
> 217,000 miles on the clock. My freind has a Toyota truck. We went in
> places this last weekend I would not take my Bronco II. His Toyota is a
> off-road rusted away truck though. That thing sure does go through the
> mud.
> Bob
> GOD BLESS THE USA
Would a 96 Tacoma have these floating rotors in the front? I get a
shaky steering wheel when braking between about 65 and 50 mph, but it
seems to get better when I balance my tires (which I have to do *very*
often because of the shakes).
Also get a shaky steering wheel just driving, between 55-65 mph, but
it is not nearly as bad, but makes me suspect the tires are the
problem.
I have checked my alignment, rotors (on the front of course) and tire
pressure -the allignment is just barely out of spec (tracks reasonably
well), the rotors are fine, and the tire pressure is exactly as my
owners manual specifies for the tire size (26 psi front and 29 rear).
I have Toy alloy wheels and BFG AT/KO 10.5 x 30" tires … (is there
some special trick to balancing these that the guys at Discount do not
know?)
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, I am really stumped.
Jose R.
"David J and Lynne J Shepherd" <djslj…@capital.net> wrote in message <news:3c45d8c8_3@corp.newsgroups.com>…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> The clamping forces on the floating rotor if varied by un even wheel torque
> can also affect heat dissipation, which also occurs through the wheel assy,
> particularly alloy wheels.
> "andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> news:pkg18.273839$WW.13782856@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net…
> > if i were to rely on hand tighten only, i would go buy a torque wrench
> that
> > fit the bill. funny thing is, i have many torque wrenches but still use my
> > impact wrench for on/off.
> > i’m surprised that if lug torque leads to brake issues, why do auto
> centers
> > (grages, etc) rely so heavily on impact wrench? they should be required to
> > use a auto-torque impact wrench, or a regular torque wrench.
> > i’m still not convinced that on hub centric floating rotor setups, lug
> > torque will warp the rotor. with the press-in studs in rotor, it becomes
> > prevelant that differences in lug torque can twist the rotor as the torque
> > force intensity is very high on the rotor around the head of the stud on
> the
> > back side of the rotor.
> > "Bob" <blori…@webtv.net> wrote in message
> > news:14865-3C4574DF-45@storefull-292.iap.bryant.webtv.net…
> > > Tighten lugnuts only by hand. I’m not trolling but my present F-150 went
> > > 189,thousand without being cut. I had it since it was new. It now has
> > > 217,000 miles on the clock. My freind has a Toyota truck. We went in
> > > places this last weekend I would not take my Bronco II. His Toyota is a
> > > off-road rusted away truck though. That thing sure does go through the
> > > mud.
> > > Bob
> > > GOD BLESS THE USA
> —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—–
> http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
What about the use of air wrenches to tighten lugnuts? Are auto technicians
everywhere overtightening lugnuts with air wrenches, thereby causing rotors
to warp?
Don
"andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:HKT08.272239$WW.13674211@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> i reported earlier on this list a issue with my 96′ 4runner brake pedal
> pulsing. i suspected the rotors and i now just swapped them out, brake
pads
> too. pulsing is gone.
> truck only has 40k miles on it. the old brake pads were still at 97% of
> original thickness!!
> i suspect that this issue arises from the rotors themselves not being of
> uniform density. constant heat cycles make them warp over time.
> the old set makes for a good brake project. i’ll get them cut then do some
> minor cross drilling so when the truck hits 80k miles i have a backup set
to
> put in.
> has anyone else gone 40k+ miles without the need to cut the OEM rotors?
> anyone using aftermarket rotors that have gone 40k+ miles without the need
> to be cut ?
they float if when you take the wheel off the rotor wobbles all around, but
cannot come off unless you take off the brake caliper.
steering shake is much different then my brake pulsing. a rotor may be
square but out of balance. you can have it checked for both, off the vehicle
at a shop.
from some research, the good balancing people put a few small weights,
inside and out as needed to get the best balance.
tires may need re-balancing after the tire goes thru tread wear, but i don’t
think so much that you would get steering shake.
my 96′ 4runner has minor steer shake, but i can only attribute this to the
large 265-70-16 tires and the wear on sterring bushings/components.
maybe you need some new polyurethane bushings throughout ???
"J. Ruiz" <moon…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:40e4e557.0201170850.574ca738@posting.google.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Would a 96 Tacoma have these floating rotors in the front? I get a
> shaky steering wheel when braking between about 65 and 50 mph, but it
> seems to get better when I balance my tires (which I have to do *very*
> often because of the shakes).
> Also get a shaky steering wheel just driving, between 55-65 mph, but
> it is not nearly as bad, but makes me suspect the tires are the
> problem.
> I have checked my alignment, rotors (on the front of course) and tire
> pressure -the allignment is just barely out of spec (tracks reasonably
> well), the rotors are fine, and the tire pressure is exactly as my
> owners manual specifies for the tire size (26 psi front and 29 rear).
> I have Toy alloy wheels and BFG AT/KO 10.5 x 30" tires … (is there
> some special trick to balancing these that the guys at Discount do not
> know?)
> Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, I am really stumped.
> Jose R.
> "David J and Lynne J Shepherd" <djslj…@capital.net> wrote in message
<news:3c45d8c8_3@corp.newsgroups.com>…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> > The clamping forces on the floating rotor if varied by un even wheel
torque
> > can also affect heat dissipation, which also occurs through the wheel
assy,
> > particularly alloy wheels.
> > "andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> > news:pkg18.273839$WW.13782856@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net…
> > > if i were to rely on hand tighten only, i would go buy a torque wrench
> > that
> > > fit the bill. funny thing is, i have many torque wrenches but still
use my
> > > impact wrench for on/off.
> > > i’m surprised that if lug torque leads to brake issues, why do auto
> > centers
> > > (grages, etc) rely so heavily on impact wrench? they should be
required to
> > > use a auto-torque impact wrench, or a regular torque wrench.
> > > i’m still not convinced that on hub centric floating rotor setups, lug
> > > torque will warp the rotor. with the press-in studs in rotor, it
becomes
> > > prevelant that differences in lug torque can twist the rotor as the
torque
> > > force intensity is very high on the rotor around the head of the stud
on
> > the
> > > back side of the rotor.
> > > "Bob" <blori…@webtv.net> wrote in message
> > > news:14865-3C4574DF-45@storefull-292.iap.bryant.webtv.net…
> > > > Tighten lugnuts only by hand. I’m not trolling but my present F-150
went
> > > > 189,thousand without being cut. I had it since it was new. It now
has
> > > > 217,000 miles on the clock. My freind has a Toyota truck. We went in
> > > > places this last weekend I would not take my Bronco II. His Toyota
is a
> > > > off-road rusted away truck though. That thing sure does go through
the
> > > > mud.
> > > > Bob
> > > > GOD BLESS THE USA
> > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—–
> > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> > —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
this was mentioned in the thread.
all i can recommend to those worried about this when your auto is at the
shop, ask for them to use a torque wrench (or auto-torque socket) if they
must put on lug nuts.
lots of shops bear the ASE sign as a sign of competency. ASE should make it
so that lug nuts must be tightened to torque spec.
"Don" <dc…@ho.nospam.me> wrote in message
news:JkD18.1665$OS5.140791@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> What about the use of air wrenches to tighten lugnuts? Are auto
technicians
> everywhere overtightening lugnuts with air wrenches, thereby causing
rotors
> to warp?
> Don
> "andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> news:HKT08.272239$WW.13674211@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net…
> > i reported earlier on this list a issue with my 96′ 4runner brake pedal
> > pulsing. i suspected the rotors and i now just swapped them out, brake
> pads
> > too. pulsing is gone.
> > truck only has 40k miles on it. the old brake pads were still at 97% of
> > original thickness!!
> > i suspect that this issue arises from the rotors themselves not being of
> > uniform density. constant heat cycles make them warp over time.
> > the old set makes for a good brake project. i’ll get them cut then do
some
> > minor cross drilling so when the truck hits 80k miles i have a backup
set
> to
> > put in.
> > has anyone else gone 40k+ miles without the need to cut the OEM rotors?
> > anyone using aftermarket rotors that have gone 40k+ miles without the
need
> > to be cut ?
Andrew:
You gave me two new possibilities to investigate: out of balance
rotors, and bushings …
I should point out I cannot feel a pulse while braking, only the
shake, and that it seems to only occur while braking at highway speeds
(like when using exit ramps, freeway exchanges etc- not between stop
lights).
the truck only has about 55k on it (a 96) so the low milage only adds
to my confusion.
The shop I have been going to (a local Discount Tire) has lost my
business. They are always packed and always in a hurry (My tires were
filled well in excess of 40 PSI last time I left there)
I may just have a mechanic figure it out when I get the 60k service
done.
I paid for the "lifetime" balance and rotation, so I will go to
another location and see if they get it right. Balancing seems to help
somewhat, and then the shake gets progressively worse (I have done
this 2x since I got the truck in September of last year)
J.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
"andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message <news:P2H18.378921$W8.13901301@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>…
> they float if when you take the wheel off the rotor wobbles all around, but
> cannot come off unless you take off the brake caliper.
> steering shake is much different then my brake pulsing. a rotor may be
> square but out of balance. you can have it checked for both, off the vehicle
> at a shop.
> from some research, the good balancing people put a few small weights,
> inside and out as needed to get the best balance.
> tires may need re-balancing after the tire goes thru tread wear, but i don’t
> think so much that you would get steering shake.
> my 96′ 4runner has minor steer shake, but i can only attribute this to the
> large 265-70-16 tires and the wear on sterring bushings/components.
> maybe you need some new polyurethane bushings throughout ???
> "J. Ruiz" <moon…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:40e4e557.0201170850.574ca738@posting.google.com…
> > Would a 96 Tacoma have these floating rotors in the front? I get a
> > shaky steering wheel when braking between about 65 and 50 mph, but it
> > seems to get better when I balance my tires (which I have to do *very*
> > often because of the shakes).
> > Also get a shaky steering wheel just driving, between 55-65 mph, but
> > it is not nearly as bad, but makes me suspect the tires are the
> > problem.
> > I have checked my alignment, rotors (on the front of course) and tire
> > pressure -the allignment is just barely out of spec (tracks reasonably
> > well), the rotors are fine, and the tire pressure is exactly as my
> > owners manual specifies for the tire size (26 psi front and 29 rear).
> > I have Toy alloy wheels and BFG AT/KO 10.5 x 30" tires … (is there
> > some special trick to balancing these that the guys at Discount do not
> > know?)
> > Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, I am really stumped.
> > Jose R.
> > "David J and Lynne J Shepherd" <djslj…@capital.net> wrote in message
> <news:3c45d8c8_3@corp.newsgroups.com>…
> > > The clamping forces on the floating rotor if varied by un even wheel
> torque
> > > can also affect heat dissipation, which also occurs through the wheel
> assy,
> > > particularly alloy wheels.
> > > "andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> > > news:pkg18.273839$WW.13782856@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net…
> > > > if i were to rely on hand tighten only, i would go buy a torque wrench
> that
> > > > fit the bill. funny thing is, i have many torque wrenches but still
> use my
> > > > impact wrench for on/off.
> > > > i’m surprised that if lug torque leads to brake issues, why do auto
> centers
> > > > (grages, etc) rely so heavily on impact wrench? they should be
> required to
> > > > use a auto-torque impact wrench, or a regular torque wrench.
> > > > i’m still not convinced that on hub centric floating rotor setups, lug
> > > > torque will warp the rotor. with the press-in studs in rotor, it
> becomes
> > > > prevelant that differences in lug torque can twist the rotor as the
> torque
> > > > force intensity is very high on the rotor around the head of the stud
> on
> the
> > > > back side of the rotor.
> > > > "Bob" <blori…@webtv.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:14865-3C4574DF-45@storefull-292.iap.bryant.webtv.net…
> > > > > Tighten lugnuts only by hand. I’m not trolling but my present F-150
> went
> > > > > 189,thousand without being cut. I had it since it was new. It now
> has
> > > > > 217,000 miles on the clock. My freind has a Toyota truck. We went in
> > > > > places this last weekend I would not take my Bronco II. His Toyota
> is a
> > > > > off-road rusted away truck though. That thing sure does go through
> the
> > > > > mud.
> > > > > Bob
> > > > > GOD BLESS THE USA
> > > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—–
> > > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> > > —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
Have them balanced "lug centric" not "hub centric".
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
"J. Ruiz" wrote:
> Would a 96 Tacoma have these floating rotors in the front? I get a
> shaky steering wheel when braking between about 65 and 50 mph, but it
> seems to get better when I balance my tires (which I have to do *very*
> often because of the shakes).
> Also get a shaky steering wheel just driving, between 55-65 mph, but
> it is not nearly as bad, but makes me suspect the tires are the
> problem.
> I have checked my alignment, rotors (on the front of course) and tire
> pressure -the allignment is just barely out of spec (tracks reasonably
> well), the rotors are fine, and the tire pressure is exactly as my
> owners manual specifies for the tire size (26 psi front and 29 rear).
> I have Toy alloy wheels and BFG AT/KO 10.5 x 30" tires … (is there
> some special trick to balancing these that the guys at Discount do not
> know?)
> Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, I am really stumped.
> Jose R.
> "David J and Lynne J Shepherd" <djslj…@capital.net> wrote in message <news:3c45d8c8_3@corp.newsgroups.com>…
> > The clamping forces on the floating rotor if varied by un even wheel torque
> > can also affect heat dissipation, which also occurs through the wheel assy,
> > particularly alloy wheels.
> > "andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> > news:pkg18.273839$WW.13782856@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net…
> > > if i were to rely on hand tighten only, i would go buy a torque wrench
> > that
> > > fit the bill. funny thing is, i have many torque wrenches but still use my
> > > impact wrench for on/off.
> > > i’m surprised that if lug torque leads to brake issues, why do auto
> > centers
> > > (grages, etc) rely so heavily on impact wrench? they should be required to
> > > use a auto-torque impact wrench, or a regular torque wrench.
> > > i’m still not convinced that on hub centric floating rotor setups, lug
> > > torque will warp the rotor. with the press-in studs in rotor, it becomes
> > > prevelant that differences in lug torque can twist the rotor as the torque
> > > force intensity is very high on the rotor around the head of the stud on
> > the
> > > back side of the rotor.
> > > "Bob" <blori…@webtv.net> wrote in message
> > > news:14865-3C4574DF-45@storefull-292.iap.bryant.webtv.net…
> > > > Tighten lugnuts only by hand. I’m not trolling but my present F-150 went
> > > > 189,thousand without being cut. I had it since it was new. It now has
> > > > 217,000 miles on the clock. My freind has a Toyota truck. We went in
> > > > places this last weekend I would not take my Bronco II. His Toyota is a
> > > > off-road rusted away truck though. That thing sure does go through the
> > > > mud.
> > > > Bob
> > > > GOD BLESS THE USA
> > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—–
> > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> > —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
I just have to mention the "put on lug nuts" thing. K
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
andrew steffek wrote:
> this was mentioned in the thread.
> all i can recommend to those worried about this when your auto is at the
> shop, ask for them to use a torque wrench (or auto-torque socket) if they
> must put on lug nuts.
> lots of shops bear the ASE sign as a sign of competency. ASE should make it
> so that lug nuts must be tightened to torque spec.
> "Don" <dc…@ho.nospam.me> wrote in message
> news:JkD18.1665$OS5.140791@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net…
> > What about the use of air wrenches to tighten lugnuts? Are auto
> technicians
> > everywhere overtightening lugnuts with air wrenches, thereby causing
> rotors
> > to warp?
> > Don
> > "andrew steffek" <astef…@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> > news:HKT08.272239$WW.13674211@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net…
> > > i reported earlier on this list a issue with my 96′ 4runner brake pedal
> > > pulsing. i suspected the rotors and i now just swapped them out, brake
> > pads
> > > too. pulsing is gone.
> > > truck only has 40k miles on it. the old brake pads were still at 97% of
> > > original thickness!!
> > > i suspect that this issue arises from the rotors themselves not being of
> > > uniform density. constant heat cycles make them warp over time.
> > > the old set makes for a good brake project. i’ll get them cut then do
> some
> > > minor cross drilling so when the truck hits 80k miles i have a backup
> set
> > to
> > > put in.
> > > has anyone else gone 40k+ miles without the need to cut the OEM rotors?
> > > anyone using aftermarket rotors that have gone 40k+ miles without the
> need
> > > to be cut ?
Hello,
Bite the bullet and put in the new engine, you will be glad in the long
run. The V6′s are known to throw a rod occasionally for no apparent reason.
It isn’t that hard to install a new engine if you can get a cherry picker
and have a few tools. The engine oil cooler is very expensive if it is one
of the reasons for the demise of the old engine, and it often is.
jnkessler