For the life of me, I can’t get the bolt off the crankshaft on my 22re.
Unable to find a tool to hold the crankshaft in place while the bolt is
removed, I made my own.
Even with a 3ft cheater bar, pulling as hard as I can, the bolt still won’t
budge. I even broke a socket. I have tried tapping the ignition with the
breaker bar on the bolt, wedged against the chassis, but that didn’t work.
Now I’m thinking that maybe this is a reverse thread bolt. Is it? Any
other suggestions?
John
"JY" <jonn…@thegrid.net> wrote in message
news:Y2NL9.2156$c52.230846@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net…
> For the life of me, I can’t get the bolt off the crankshaft on my 22re.
> Unable to find a tool to hold the crankshaft in place while the bolt is
> removed, I made my own.
> Even with a 3ft cheater bar, pulling as hard as I can, the bolt still
won’t
> budge. I even broke a socket. I have tried tapping the ignition with the
> breaker bar on the bolt, wedged against the chassis, but that didn’t work.
> Now I’m thinking that maybe this is a reverse thread bolt. Is it? Any
> other suggestions?
> John
How good a quality was the socket? That could be part of it. It’s hard to
get much up there, but try hitting the head of the bolt a few times with a
good size hammer. Also soak it in penetrating oil and let it sit for a while
and whack it some more. The try the starter thing again, leaving the breaker
bar an inch or two away from the frame before you crank it. Also don’t just
bump the starter. Hold it for a second.
Chris
Its not reverse… there is a special tool to remove it, I believe Sears
should have one. Haynes manual should have the part number for it. All I
can say is have a really good torque wrench because it is a huge PITA! Good
luck!
"JY" <jonn…@thegrid.net> wrote in message
news:Y2NL9.2156$c52.230846@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> For the life of me, I can’t get the bolt off the crankshaft on my 22re.
> Unable to find a tool to hold the crankshaft in place while the bolt is
> removed, I made my own.
> Even with a 3ft cheater bar, pulling as hard as I can, the bolt still
won’t
> budge. I even broke a socket. I have tried tapping the ignition with the
> breaker bar on the bolt, wedged against the chassis, but that didn’t work.
> Now I’m thinking that maybe this is a reverse thread bolt. Is it? Any
> other suggestions?
> John
"JY" <jonn…@thegrid.net> wrote in message
news:Y2NL9.2156$c52.230846@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net…
> Now I’m thinking that maybe this is a reverse thread bolt. Is it? Any
> other suggestions?
lol….i can relate! try the camshaft timing gear bolts on a 3.0 v6
sometime!
even though it might seem so, its not a reverse threaded bolt. i recommend
locking the crank via the flywheel, and putting a high quality impact socket
on the crank bolt. i dont know if you have air tools or not but assuming
you dont have a large impact wrench that can break it, if a 3 foot cheater
bar isnt enough use a 4 foot cheater bar….or a 5 foot, or a 6 foot, or
whatever it takes. sooner or later it will break loose.
–
Nathan W. Collier
http://StreetPony.com/forum
Mustang Discussion Board
The tool is described in the chilton’s manual, but neither sears, napa,
autozone or kragen’s had it or had any idea where i could get it. I tried
making my own, but I ended up breaking the socket, then broke the tool that
i made.
John
"Jason Diaz" <firstnamelastn…@austin.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ato7ar$h0o$1@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Its not reverse… there is a special tool to remove it, I believe Sears
> should have one. Haynes manual should have the part number for it. All I
> can say is have a really good torque wrench because it is a huge PITA!
Good
> luck!
> "JY" <jonn…@thegrid.net> wrote in message
> news:Y2NL9.2156$c52.230846@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net…
> > For the life of me, I can’t get the bolt off the crankshaft on my 22re.
> > Unable to find a tool to hold the crankshaft in place while the bolt is
> > removed, I made my own.
> > Even with a 3ft cheater bar, pulling as hard as I can, the bolt still
> won’t
> > budge. I even broke a socket. I have tried tapping the ignition with
the
> > breaker bar on the bolt, wedged against the chassis, but that didn’t
work.
> > Now I’m thinking that maybe this is a reverse thread bolt. Is it? Any
> > other suggestions?
> > John
How do you lock the engine via the flywheel? It’s an automatic..
"Nathan W. Collier" <GetFreeM…@StreetPony.com> wrote in message
news:AaNL9.32530$Rt1.1643492@twister.southeast.rr.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> "JY" <jonn…@thegrid.net> wrote in message
> news:Y2NL9.2156$c52.230846@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net…
> > Now I’m thinking that maybe this is a reverse thread bolt. Is it? Any
> > other suggestions?
> lol….i can relate! try the camshaft timing gear bolts on a 3.0 v6
> sometime!
> even though it might seem so, its not a reverse threaded bolt. i
recommend
> locking the crank via the flywheel, and putting a high quality impact
socket
> on the crank bolt. i dont know if you have air tools or not but assuming
> you dont have a large impact wrench that can break it, if a 3 foot cheater
> bar isnt enough use a 4 foot cheater bar….or a 5 foot, or a 6 foot, or
> whatever it takes. sooner or later it will break loose.
> —
> Nathan W. Collier
> http://StreetPony.com/forum
> Mustang Discussion Board
"JY" <jonn…@thegrid.net> wrote in message
news:V1OL9.2137$1a1.223276@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net…
> How do you lock the engine via the flywheel? It’s an automatic..
run a long screwdriver up between the tc and the flywheel and turn the
engine slowly until the other end hits the frame (or anything else solid).
if that isnt accessible due to dust covers, etc, pull the starter out and
use that hole to gain access.
–
Nathan W. Collier
http://StreetPony.com/forum
Mustang Discussion Board
Chris wrote:
> How good a quality was the socket? That could be part of it. It’s hard to
> get much up there, but try hitting the head of the bolt a few times with a
> good size hammer. Also soak it in penetrating oil and let it sit for a while
> and whack it some more. The try the starter thing again, leaving the breaker
> bar an inch or two away from the frame before you crank it. Also don’t just
> bump the starter. Hold it for a second.
Starter worked for me after 2 impact guns and breaker bars didn’t work:
http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4×4/CheapTricks/EngineMods/index.sht...
JY wrote:
> How do you lock the engine via the flywheel? It’s an automatic..
Uh, automatics have a flywheel, er, I mean "flexplate"
–
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