I somehow managed to burn a wire and now my starter won’t turn when I turn
the key (no voltage to the solenoid). I’m using a wire directly to the
battery to start it right now (have to turn the key on, open the hood, touch
the wire to the positive terminal), but would really like to get it fixed
properly.
From my auto 1 class, I recall they put a smaller gague wire in line with a
higher gague so the smaller part burns out and protects the entire wire.
You can test them by finding the smaller gague part, and pulling the ends to
see if it stretches. I understand how to do that, but where would I go
looking for this smaller gague section of the wire?
I tried tracing the wire on the starter solenoid, but it ran into a bunch of
other wires that were taped into a bundle, which ran into a plastic tube and
then through the firewall. Would it be likely that the smaller gague
section would be under the dash?
Hope this made sense
Thanks,
John
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
JY wrote:
> I somehow managed to burn a wire and now my starter won’t turn when I turn
> the key (no voltage to the solenoid). I’m using a wire directly to the
> battery to start it right now (have to turn the key on, open the hood, touch
> the wire to the positive terminal), but would really like to get it fixed
> properly.
> From my auto 1 class, I recall they put a smaller gague wire in line with a
> higher gague so the smaller part burns out and protects the entire wire.
> You can test them by finding the smaller gague part, and pulling the ends to
> see if it stretches. I understand how to do that, but where would I go
> looking for this smaller gague section of the wire?
> I tried tracing the wire on the starter solenoid, but it ran into a bunch of
> other wires that were taped into a bundle, which ran into a plastic tube and
> then through the firewall. Would it be likely that the smaller gague
> section would be under the dash?
Not sure if they do this on the starter solenoid circuit or not. One option is just to run a new wire from the ignition switch
through the firewall and down to the starter. Just find the wires at both ends, and splice into them. If you have the neutral
start (A/T) or clutch cancel (M/T) switches than you may have a problem with them.
http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4×4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
Thanks Roger,
I guess i’ll just run a new wire. I really appreciate your answers to my
questions.
John
"Roger Brown" <r.c.br…@ieee.org> wrote in message
news:3E0DE47C.F91F8B09@ieee.org…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> JY wrote:
> > I somehow managed to burn a wire and now my starter won’t turn when I
turn
> > the key (no voltage to the solenoid). I’m using a wire directly to the
> > battery to start it right now (have to turn the key on, open the hood,
touch
> > the wire to the positive terminal), but would really like to get it
fixed
> > properly.
> > From my auto 1 class, I recall they put a smaller gague wire in line
with a
> > higher gague so the smaller part burns out and protects the entire wire.
> > You can test them by finding the smaller gague part, and pulling the
ends to
> > see if it stretches. I understand how to do that, but where would I go
> > looking for this smaller gague section of the wire?
> > I tried tracing the wire on the starter solenoid, but it ran into a
bunch of
> > other wires that were taped into a bundle, which ran into a plastic tube
and
> > then through the firewall. Would it be likely that the smaller gague
> > section would be under the dash?
> Not sure if they do this on the starter solenoid circuit or not. One
option is just to run a new wire from the ignition switch
> through the firewall and down to the starter. Just find the wires at both
ends, and splice into them. If you have the neutral
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> start (A/T) or clutch cancel (M/T) switches than you may have a problem
with them.
> http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4×4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml