FJ40 Guys,
I’ve got a 1975 FJ40 with a 2F Engine. It was a Lake Tahoe Car it’s whole
life until I bought it. The previous owner disabled a lot of the smog
control stuff; i.e. he cut off the erg valve with a torch and welded it
shut, took hoses off the smog pump and put a Webber carb (32mm) on it. I’m
in the Navy with my residence in Alaska so all my vehicles are licensed in
Alaska. What I want to know is this; do these 2f engines run better with
or without all the smog stuff on them? I’ve pretty much collected most of
the smog parts and although I’m only a shadetree mechanic but I’m sure I
could put all the stuff back on. My only question is; should I? Would I
gain anything by having it all back on or should I just strip it all off and
plug the holes? By the way does anybody have any opinions about the Webber
Carb vs the Aisen OE Carb?
Thanks for your thoughts.
By the way, I’m never gonna sell it.
Tim White
San Diego, CA
On Thu, 24 Oct 2002 15:26:33 GMT, someone who calls themselves "Tim
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
White" <chtwh…@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>FJ40 Guys,
>I’ve got a 1975 FJ40 with a 2F Engine. It was a Lake Tahoe Car it’s whole
>life until I bought it. The previous owner disabled a lot of the smog
>control stuff; i.e. he cut off the erg valve with a torch and welded it
>shut, took hoses off the smog pump and put a Webber carb (32mm) on it. I’m
>in the Navy with my residence in Alaska so all my vehicles are licensed in
>Alaska. What I want to know is this; do these 2f engines run better with
>or without all the smog stuff on them? I’ve pretty much collected most of
>the smog parts and although I’m only a shadetree mechanic but I’m sure I
>could put all the stuff back on. My only question is; should I? Would I
>gain anything by having it all back on or should I just strip it all off and
>plug the holes? By the way does anybody have any opinions about the Webber
>Carb vs the Aisen OE Carb?
>Thanks for your thoughts.
>By the way, I’m never gonna sell it.
>Tim White
>San Diego, CA
Any engine will run better without all the smog crap, if it’s
removed properly and re tuned. Though they can run just fine with it
all on there if it’s working, because the engineers are pretty good at
making cars drivable.
But for the vast majority of people who want their car to have
resale value it is a very bad idea to remove it, because finding and
replacing all the smog equipment to legally register the car in
another state (like California fr’instance) will be either very time
consuming or expensive. Usually both.
A lot of the pieces fall apart when you try to remove or replace
them, like air injection manifolds… and then you have to find one
($$) or fabricate one out of what’s left ($$) or buy an aftermarket
manifold ($$).
And are you going to move back soon and stay in Alaska your whole
life? California has residency rules that state if you’re here for
more than X months (IIRC 1 or 2) or you have a job in the state, you
have to get a CA drivers license and plates. There’s probably a
military exemption, but they might want to split hairs about
deliberately removing the equipment.
For those of you permanent CA residents with motorhomes or luxury
cars with out of state plates (like the $12 annual fee Oregon tags) on
them, the CA DMV can come after you for all overdue back registration
fees plus steep penalties. This could come as a several-thousand-
dollar wakeup call if you get busted…
–<< Bruce >>–
—
Bruce L. Bergman, POB 394, Woodland Hills CA 91365, USA
Electrician, Westend Electric (#726700) Agoura, CA
WARNING: UCE Spam E-mail is not welcome here. I report violators.
SpamBlock In Use – Remove the "Python" with a "net" to E-Mail.
I have a desmogged 2F powered 76 FJ40. When tested at the emissions station,
the truck actually did WORSE with the emissions controls installed. I
removed the emissions controls, installed a Man-A-Fre header, a nonUSA
distributor, and had Jim C. work his magic on my Aisin carb. The net result
of this was that it actually passed teh sniffer test with better results,
and there is more power… ALOT more power….
FOr example, I had the truck over at one of the shops in town, the owner of
which specializes in V8 conversions. I was having him check out the tranny,
and after he got back from driving my truck he hopped out and said ‘If I
didn’t know any better, I’d have thought there was a V8 underneath that
hood, you did very well with this trucks drivetrain, oh, and there is
nothing wrong with your tranny’
The weber carb is OK, my preferance is for a properly built (or Non-USA)
aisin carbureator, which will net you better fuel economy, and more power,
if built right.
–
James H.
76 FJ40 ‘Blood Sucker’
FJ40OMERS900035InchMTR’s Non-USADistJimCCarbStock otherwise.
"Who needs a locker when you’ve got secondaries!"
"Tim White" <chtwh…@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:JiUt9.43$I82.4922667@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> FJ40 Guys,
> I’ve got a 1975 FJ40 with a 2F Engine. It was a Lake Tahoe Car it’s
whole
> life until I bought it. The previous owner disabled a lot of the smog
> control stuff; i.e. he cut off the erg valve with a torch and welded it
> shut, took hoses off the smog pump and put a Webber carb (32mm) on it.
I’m
> in the Navy with my residence in Alaska so all my vehicles are licensed in
> Alaska. What I want to know is this; do these 2f engines run better with
> or without all the smog stuff on them? I’ve pretty much collected most of
> the smog parts and although I’m only a shadetree mechanic but I’m sure I
> could put all the stuff back on. My only question is; should I? Would I
> gain anything by having it all back on or should I just strip it all off
and
> plug the holes? By the way does anybody have any opinions about the
Webber
> Carb vs the Aisen OE Carb?
> Thanks for your thoughts.
> By the way, I’m never gonna sell it.
> Tim White
> San Diego, CA