Comments on: FJ62 Heater problems http://www.toyotatrucksclub.com/fj62-heater-problems Fri, 03 Feb 2012 13:58:14 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: admin http://www.toyotatrucksclub.com/fj62-heater-problems/comment-page-1#comment-2519 admin Thu, 31 Dec 2009 05:59:40 +0000 http://www.toyotatrucksclub.com/fj62-heater-problems#comment-2519 <p>On Thu, 28 Dec 2000 05:50:29 GMT, mth <miche...@home.com> wrote: <br /> >I've a (new to me) 1988 TLC FJ62. When driving in sub-freezing weather <br /> >the rear heater alternates between warm and cold. The front only gets <br /> >lukewarm. The temp gauge rarely makes it to 10% (0% being cold and 100% <br /> >being hot). The gauge will often just sit on the "C", but since it <br /> >occasionaly moves I assume it (sorta) works. I replaced the thermostat <br /> >with a Toyota 185deg thermostat (all they stocked). <br /> </p><p>>Short of covering 1/2 of the radiator with cardboard, anyone have any <br /> >suggestions? <br /> </p><p>>Thanks! <br /> >cold in colorado <br /> <br />  Check the thermostat again - it's entirely possible that the new one <br /> is also bad, or it's the wrong thermostat, or is in upside down. <br /> </p><p>  Most parts people outside of areas where they're very popular like <br /> California have never seen a 'Cruiser before, and there are some <br /> really odd parts that are exclusive to them.  For an example, carry a <br /> set of fan belts with you, because one of them is going to be a <br /> special order when you really need it, unless you live in a large town <br /> with a parts house that stocks 'D' volume items (the slow movers). <br /> </p><p>  Both of the heater cores' coolant loop bypasses the radiator and <br /> thermostat, if the thermostat is stuck open nothing warms up. <br /> </p><p>  Get a chef's instant-reading thermometer, open the radiator cap <br /> while the engine is stone cold, and try warming the car up with the <br /> radiator cap off.  Stick the thermometer in and see just how hot the <br /> water is getting.  There should be almost no water flow or temperature <br /> rise at all at the radiator until the engine warms up, and then there <br /> will be a temperature and flow surge as the thermostat starts opening. <br /> </p><p>  Yes, I know it'll be kind of hard to see the flow with that stupid <br /> little right-angle radiator neck, that's part of the challenge... ;-) <br /> </p><p>        --<< Bruce >>-- <br /> -- <br /> Bruce L. Bergman blCHURRObergman@ NOearthSPAMlink.netEVER  Remove the caps. <br /> Troubleshooter - Electrician, Phones, HVAC, Plumbing,... <br /> 'Current'ly with Westend Electric (#726700) Agoura, CA 818/889-9545 <br /> </p><p>WARNING:  No Unsolicited Commercial E-mail is EVER accepted. <br /> </p> On Thu, 28 Dec 2000 05:50:29 GMT, mth <miche…@home.com> wrote:
>I’ve a (new to me) 1988 TLC FJ62. When driving in sub-freezing weather
>the rear heater alternates between warm and cold. The front only gets
>lukewarm. The temp gauge rarely makes it to 10% (0% being cold and 100%
>being hot). The gauge will often just sit on the "C", but since it
>occasionaly moves I assume it (sorta) works. I replaced the thermostat
>with a Toyota 185deg thermostat (all they stocked).

>Short of covering 1/2 of the radiator with cardboard, anyone have any
>suggestions?

>Thanks!
>cold in colorado

  Check the thermostat again – it’s entirely possible that the new one
is also bad, or it’s the wrong thermostat, or is in upside down.

  Most parts people outside of areas where they’re very popular like
California have never seen a ‘Cruiser before, and there are some
really odd parts that are exclusive to them.  For an example, carry a
set of fan belts with you, because one of them is going to be a
special order when you really need it, unless you live in a large town
with a parts house that stocks ‘D’ volume items (the slow movers).

  Both of the heater cores’ coolant loop bypasses the radiator and
thermostat, if the thermostat is stuck open nothing warms up.

  Get a chef’s instant-reading thermometer, open the radiator cap
while the engine is stone cold, and try warming the car up with the
radiator cap off.  Stick the thermometer in and see just how hot the
water is getting.  There should be almost no water flow or temperature
rise at all at the radiator until the engine warms up, and then there
will be a temperature and flow surge as the thermostat starts opening.

  Yes, I know it’ll be kind of hard to see the flow with that stupid
little right-angle radiator neck, that’s part of the challenge… ;-)

        –<< Bruce >>–
—
Bruce L. Bergman blCHURRObergman@ NOearthSPAMlink.netEVER  Remove the caps.
Troubleshooter – Electrician, Phones, HVAC, Plumbing,…
‘Current’ly with Westend Electric (#726700) Agoura, CA 818/889-9545

WARNING:  No Unsolicited Commercial E-mail is EVER accepted.

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